Fruitcake is not part of my childhood holiday tradition. I can’t really think of any childhood holiday tradition. My first taste of fruitcake was in my mid-20’s. A friend was cleaning out his departed father’s home and offered me a fruitcake. I scoffed at the idea of it, but Rod assured me Claxton was a good brand.
So one evening I sat and drank some of the Cointreau from his dad’s estate, and ate some of the fruitcake. I was surprised! It was delicious–moist, full of chewy fruits, crunchy nuts and warming spices–and I savored it.
Several years later I was driving through southern Wisconsin on my way to visit family. Gray day, bare trees, flat snow-covered earth. A public radio station was broadcasting “A Christmas Memory”, Truman Capote’s childhood memoir of making fruitcake with a much older cousin. The story struck me enough that I remember the scene and story 20 years later.
The desire for a holiday tradition struck me some time in my late 30’s. With no kids, I spent the holidays either with friends or driving to Wisconsin to be with my family. I wanted something I could carry through year to year and share with whoever was important to me.
Alton Brown’s “Free Range Fruitcake” fit the bill. It is a recipe that takes time, planning and a few bucks. Six different kinds of dried fruit, macerated overnight in rum, cooked in apple cider and butter with freshly crushed cloves and allspice berries, mixed with pecans and folded into a simple quick bread. Then days of basting with brandy. The loaves are then sealed in plastic and foil and wrapped with a bow. The many steps allow for plenty of time to consider the past year and with whom I will share these delicacies.
Fruitcakes are both famous and notorious for lasting a long time. A family in Michigan still presents the last fruitcake made by their great-great-grandmother before her death in 1878. Indeed, after basting in brandy, a loaf hidden in the back of my fridge for a year tasted just as delicious as a fresh one. Fruitcakes have their limits though.
Helen’s Fruitcake
Year after year, dear Grandma Helen (not really my grandma, but I feel a part of her family) would pull the same foil-wrapped fruitcake from her freezer and place it among her dozens of picture-perfect lady locks, cherry winks, date bars and clothespin cookies. It was never unwrapped, never a show made of it, but it had a place in her celebration. Primarily as the butt of a few jokes.
Helen passed away in the fall of 2015, just weeks before her daughter’s renowned annual Christmas party. Doreen retrieved the fruitcake from Helen’s freezer, brought it to her home, and placed it center-stage among the turkey and ham and shrimp salad. Finally, the fruitcake was unwrapped, displayed on an elegant platter. It was beautiful. Golden brown, with the neon-colored fruits and pecans strategically placed on top.
Despite seeing the silvery block and hearing jokes about “The Fruitcake” for multiple years, I never knew the story behind it. Just before slicing into it, Doreen told us its origin story.
As part of her marathon holiday baking session, Helen made fruitcakes and gave them to friends. Some time in the late 1990’s one of the recipients passed away before Helen could give her the fruitcake. Helen didn’t think it right to pass this cake on to someone else. (Think about it; would you want a dead woman’s fruitcake?) So it went into the freezer. Years passed before Helen found it again, and on a whim, she placed it on the holiday table. For 20 years this cake was frozen, thawed, displayed, frozen, thawed, displayed. Until there were no more Christmas get-togethers at Helen’s house.
That fruitcake, lovingly made and brought out year after year, I’m sure was a reminder to Helen of her old friend. I imagine her flood of memories of past fruit cakes as she pulled it out of the freezer. And maybe a bit of sadness as she put it back in the freezer to wait for another trip around the sun. Until it was Doreen’s turn to pull it out.
My New Tradition
Helen’s fruitcake ultimately became the parody of a baked good that we all know: solid, heavy, dry, inedible. That is not how her fruitcake started. And that is not what I present to you this holiday season. It is neither a mass-produced confection, nor a stale, beleaguered loaf.
I think I have chosen fruitcake to be my holiday tradition, because it is like the other things I’m attracted to: stray cats, abandoned buildings, thrift store finds, the half-price rack at the garden center. They’re not too attractive but if you clean them up, give them a little love, others will see how wonderful and valuable they are.
I started this fruitcake tradition for me as much as for you. Each year as I make my fruitcakes, I think of Rod and of Helen and of Doreen and all the others that I have shared these with. Some of you are just receiving your first fruitcake. Some of you have been with me for a while and I hope you look forward to my fruitcake. And if you still have last year’s in the back of your fridge, be sure to eat that one before cutting into this one.